Leh sits at about 3,500 metres, and most people feel it on the first day. A headache, a short temper and a poor night’s sleep are normal. What matters is how you spend the first three days, because that decides whether the trek a week later feels like a walk or a struggle.

Why three days matter

Your body adjusts to thinner air over days rather than hours. Our plan for the first three days is built around that. Nothing is booked for the first morning, and the first walk is short enough that you could stop at any point and turn back without fuss.

Day one: arrive slowly

Fly in, collect your bags and go straight to the guesthouse. Drink more water than you think you need, about three litres across the day, and eat little and often. Avoid alcohol and sleeping pills, which both make breathing at night harder. If you want to sit in the garden and do nothing, that is the right thing to do.

In the late afternoon, a gentle stroll through the old town is fine. Keep it to half an hour and take the steps slowly. If you notice your heart racing when you talk, stop and sit down.

Day two: a short walk and plenty of water

Head up to Shanti Stupa for the sunrise, or walk to the nearby viewpoint on the ridge. The climb is steady but short. Go at a pace where you could still hold a conversation. Stop often, look at the view and let your breathing settle before you climb again.

Keep your water bottle full, and take the afternoon off. Most people sleep better on the second night, though some do not. Both are normal.

Day three: the first monastery and a rest

By the third day most visitors are ready for a short drive. A morning visit to a nearby monastery is a good test. The paths are often uneven, so keep your pace easy and stop at each landing. Afterwards, take a long lunch and an afternoon rest before you think about a bigger day.

Signs to report

Tell your guide at once if you have a headache that does not ease with paracetamol, feel sick and unable to keep fluids down, or notice a cough that brings up a frothy fluid. Dizziness, confusion and loss of balance are emergencies, and the trip leader will arrange descent. Going down a few hundred metres is often the fastest cure, and nobody on our teams will think less of you for asking.

What to skip

Skip the long drive on day one, the big climb on day two and any plan that puts two high passes in one morning. We would rather you arrive at the trek with a clear head and full legs than see the valley from the back of a jeep with a headache.

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