A guide's day in Imlil
From the first light at the village to the last mint tea of the evening, a day on the muleteer trails with Hassan.
By Hassan Ait Lahcen
What to carry on a multi-day teahouse trek in the Annapurna foothills, from bag weight and layers to the small items people forget.
On a teahouse trek you sleep in simple lodges, eat what the kitchen cooks and carry everything you need for the day. A good pack is light, dry and easy to reach into. Most of the mistakes I see come from carrying too much, not too little.
Porters are used on many routes, but the weight limit they carry is set by the operator, and the rules change. Plan for a daypack of about 20 litres for the walking and a duffel or soft bag for the rest. Aim for the duffel to weigh no more than about 12 kilograms, and keep the daypack under 5 kilograms with water and a snack. A hard suitcase will not survive the trail, so use a bag with a sturdy zip and a rain cover.
Temperatures drop quickly after dark, even in spring. Pack a base layer for walking, a fleece or light down jacket for the evenings and a waterproof shell. Two pairs of walking socks are enough, and a spare set for sleeping keeps your feet warm. A warm hat and thin gloves are useful above 3,000 metres, where the lodges are cold in the mornings.
Most teahouses provide a bed and a thin blanket. A sleeping bag liner adds warmth and keeps the bedding clean, and a pillow case makes a big difference after a long day. Bring a head torch with spare batteries and a small torch for the night-time trip to the toilet. Earplugs help if the lodge is busy.
Pack a basic kit: plasters, blister dressings, paracetamol, rehydration sachets and any personal medicine in its original box. Bring water purification tablets or a filter bottle, and keep a little hand sanitiser to hand before meals. Good walking boots that are already broken in matter more than any gadget. Carry sandals or light shoes for the evenings, so your feet can dry out.
Power points in teahouses are often limited, and charging costs extra on some routes. A small power bank, a short cable and a plug adaptor for Nepal are enough. Keep phones and cameras in a dry bag, because rain can arrive without warning.
Leave the heavy guidebooks, the spare trainers and the second camera lens. A small towel and a bar of soap are enough. Do not bring more cash than you need on the trail, since few places take cards once you are above the main villages. Keep a small amount of rupees in small notes for tips and snacks.
Pack in the evening, then take half of it out. You will thank yourself on the first climb.
From the first light at the village to the last mint tea of the evening, a day on the muleteer trails with Hassan.
By Hassan Ait Lahcen
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